Just back from another scenic tour of the Western Ghats and that too during peak Monsoons!! Was unsure about making it to this trip till the last moment as I was unwell, but as I got a bit better decided to risk this one as I could not resist visiting Dudhsagar falls as I had heard and read a lot about this place and its scenic view. Challenges were heavy rains, walking around 14 + 11 kms on active railway tracks, encountering wild insects including leeches and also walking thru dark tunnels.
Back from exploring the legendary Dudhsagar (Sea of Milk) waterfalls, one of the most scenic wateralls in India located in the border of the states of Goa & Karnataka. Though perennial, the beauty of the waterfall increases multi-fold during the rainy season. Dudhsagar is a four-tiered waterfall located on the Mandovi River in Goa. It is about 60 km from state capital Panaji. Water plummets from a height of over 1,000 ft and 100 feet wide to form one of the most amazing natural phenomena in Goa and true to its name it is indeed a SEA OF MILK!!
The Legend :
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According to legend, the waterfall was once the abode of a beautiful princess. The princess used to drink sweetened milk from a golden jug after she took a bath. One day, she spotted a prince watching her while she drank the milk. She poured the milk on the prince to form a milk curtain to hide her modesty and hence the name Dudhsagar.
The roads leading to the waterfall remain closed during the monsoon and open in October. Trekking to the waterfall is very popular and so if one is bored of visiting beaches in Goa, then a trek to Dudhsagar is a great option.
There are 4 possible ways to get to this scenic place :
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Route 1 : Castle Rock - During monsoon, the trek from Castle Rock railway station to the waterfall is very popular and the ONLY ONE POSSIBLE. It is about 14 km long and offers amazing views of the valley.
Route 2 : Kulem Route - This is equally scenic but less popular as compared to Route 1. One has to get down at Kulem railway station and walk towards the falls which is about 11 km away. It normally takes 4–5 hours to reach. The famous photograph of Trains passing through before the waterfalls can be seen in this route and also the complete stretch of the falls will be visible while you hike towards the waterfalls.
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| Famous View of the train passing thru the Dudhsagar falls |
Route 3 : In Kulem one can hire a SUV to reach the foot of the Dudhsagar waterfalls. There is a taxi stand called 'Dudhsagar Taxi stand' where one can hire a vehicle and get dropped near the falls which is just 1 km hike from the dropping point but it cannot be used during monsoon season.
Route 4 : (Kuveshi-Dudhsagar)
This is the most adventurous route and cannot be attempted in monsoon since one has to cross the Mandovi river during the hike. The hike starts from a village called Kuveshi around 10 km from Castle Rock railway station. The hike is through thick jungle and is difficult to complete without experience. By this route, one can reach Dudhsagar Railway station which is 1 km from the falls.
Challenges & Precautions :
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(1) Railway Tracks and Dark Tunnels - Involves trekking in an active railway track with trains coming & going. If a train comes while you are walking on the track be prepared to move away from the track as you will have fair amount of time to move away. But you have to be very cautious when you are in a tunnel and you face a train. If you are in a tunnel and face a train, please turn towards the wall, remove your bag and bend down, because some goods trains have the doors open and there are chances of hitting you though very rare. A good torch is a must in this trek.
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| Tunnel |
(2) Peak Monsoons - but also the best time to visit these falls. So be prepared to get soaked in the rain or carry a poncho/raincoat, umbrella etc.
(3) Leech Attacks - one has to be very cautious about the leech attacks. In case you get attacked by leeches, carry some salt and apply it over the leech, hence advisable to wear sports shoes while on this trek.
We were a group of 55 from Mumbai & Pune with the entire mumbai group meeting up at Dadar station to take the train to Pune. The Pune team then caught up with the Mumbai team at Pune station and we all took the Goa Express from Pune to Kulem. The train journey was enjoyable with the entire group having a great time playing various Card games, Antakshari etc and/or just chatting and bonding with each other.
Off beat adventure decided during the trip :
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Detour somewhere between Castlerock station & Dudhsagar where the train does a TECHNICAL HALT FOR 30 seconds or so @ around 4:30am (this was done to avoid a longer rail track trek one way and reach the falls by just a 1 km walk on the track). Team of 55 split into 11 each with 2 leaders per team thru different exits. Do the MATH and it works out to 2-3 seconds per person...plan is to jump down some 2-3 feet directly on to the ground during the technical halt in that obscure spot (no platform) one by one and remember its just dark wilderness all around. All ready @ 4:30 am as per plan waiting for THE GREAT 30 SECOND JUMP. All sorts of thoughts going thru our mind and talking loudly...what if I am not able to make it?..what if part of the team makes and part does not?..where will we land? etc..just then out of no where 3-4 chaiwallas bump into all of us one after the other selling tea/coffee at that odd time increasing our impatience & blood pressure!! Train does first halt, ready to jump, suddenly hear a voice that this is not the place. Train starts again..suddenly we get the message that we are on the wrong side and amidst all the confusion all immediately rush to the other side. Train halts again..ready to jump...we hear the shout "JUMP"...1 down, 2 down, 3 down, 4 down(includes me)...then we hear the shout.."THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT PLACE"..(oh..gosh!!)..all back up again..1 up, 2 up, 3 up, 4 up...we hear the shout again.."No, No, No...THIS IS THE RIGHT SPOT"..(oh man..we are loosing precious seconds here & we have to do it all over again!!).... NO TIME TO THINK..JUST DO IT !!..luckily all manage to jump off just in time...all I can remember is landing on small pieces of uneven stones normally used in rail tracks and to make way for others I remember stepping aside & found my feet in some deep wet muddy sand. Once we ensured that all had made it and the train left (which I must say was perfectly timed)..it was a great sense of relief. Waited till day break and started our trek towards the falls @ around 6:00 am. We were hit off and on by heavy rains but it didn't matter as we were close to reaching the main falls anytime now.
Once you reach the falls you are completely overwhelmed with the beauty of it. Just stood there soaking in the beauty of the magnificent falls for a long time. Awesome, Enchanting, Beautiful, Scenic...can use as much words as we want but will fall short of describing this natural beauty. Truely, NATURE has its own ways of OVERWHELMING us. Had just completed a tour of mesmerizing LADAKH recently in the Himalayas and now standing in front of this majestic Dudhsagar waterfalls in Goa! INCREDIBLE INDIA at its very best and I am sure there are many more beautiful places to explore in this great country!! Took our cameras and went click, click, click on all directions, views, angles possible. Water force is very high during the monsoons and its better not to take a chance to go to the bottom of falls as it is quite dangerous with slippery rocks.
After our photo sessions, had some tea at the only tea stall nearby there and started back on our rail track trek of 11 kms to Kulem station. We were hit off and on by heavy rains, the tracks were slippery at places, very dark in the tunnels but it was a pleasure doing this trek soaking in the rains. One needs to be cautious about trains approaching from either side though you can make out much in advance by their sound etc. and finally had to be careful about lurking insects etc. A few of us got attacked by leeches during the trek. Otherwise the return trek provides great views of the falls including the famous train view passing thru the falls. Some of us managed to get the train view photo-op while some of us missed it. Midway on the trek, some from our group requested a goods train driver for a ride till Kulem station and he was gracious enough to oblige us with one. So some of us hitched a ride on the goods train engine. I also hopped into it as it looked very exciting to me as I had never travelled on a goods train engine ever. Was my 'Chaiya Chaiya' moment!!
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| Ride in the Goods Train!! |
On reaching Kulem station, we freshened up at the Kulem station waiting room, had our lunch, played some games waiting for our return train till Pune which arrived at 4:30 pm or so. Hopped into the train and spent the evening & night chatting and relaxing with the group. Train reached Pune at 3:40 am. Time to say goodbye to our friends from Pune. Goodbyes done..and the Mumbai group got into another bus from outside the Pune station and returned back to Mumbai at around 8 am.
Even though our trek was reduced to some extent it was more than compensated by the really exciting 30 second jump that really pumped up my heart neatly and the unusual opportunity to travel on a goods train....and of course the enchanting beauty of the Dudhsagar waterfalls..!!
