Trekking in Kashmir - Offbeat Yusmarg (April 2016)

About Yusmarg

Scenic Yusmarg

There are a couple of legends surrounding the origins of Yusmarg’s name. One hints at ‘Yusmarg’ being a corruption of ‘Roosmarg’, or ‘meadow of the musk deer’. Another one comes from a belief that Jesus Christ spent some of his ‘lost’ years in India, and passed 
through Yusmarg, earning it the name ‘Meadow of Jesus’. It is believed by the natives that Jesus came to Kashmir and stayed at Yusmarg for some time. Located at an altitude of 2396 meters above sea level and set amidst the pristine woods and gorgeous panoramic vistas, this place reminds you of the painting you would have done as a kid in school. 

So Picturesque - Ideal for a painting. Lovely
cottages set amidst the meadows.

The drive to this place takes one thru breathtaking vistas being flanked by the orchards of apples, peaches and almonds.  It is an alpine valley covered with snow clad mountains and the meadows of Pine and Fir and located in the Pir Panjal Peaks, a sub range of Himalaya. It is situated at the bank of Doodhganga River which is a tributary of Jhelum River.

An Offbeat place away from the usual commercial touristy spots

This place looks pristine, hidden and unspoilt from commercial tourism. One can hardly spot any crowd here and there is only one restaurant in Yusmarg managed by the Jammu and Kashmir tourism department. 

The only restaurant built by the J&K tourism department

The Jammu and Kashmir tourist department has built lovely cottages on these meadows. In 2017, I had the opportunity to visit Scotland and Bhutan as part of my travels, and somehow, the beauty of both these places reminded me a bit about Kashmir. However its not fair to do comparisons as each place has its own unique beauty in different seasons and has its own culture.  

Lovely cottages dotted along the meadows.

My earlier visit to Srinagar as part of my Ladakh tour in July 2013 got curtailed due to a sudden civil unrest in the region and our entire group got caught in curfew and so we could do only a limited sightseeing in Srinagar in the evening after sunset for 3-4 hours when the curfew was relaxed. Luckily this was in the fag end of our main Ladakh tour which went off very well otherwise. So when I got an opportunity to do a full Kashmir tour in April 2016, which included Sonamarg, Gulmarg, Yusmarg, Srinagar etc , I opted for it.  

It was a rainy and misty trek for us at Yusmarg

After couple of hours of scenic ride by bus from Srinagar, we reached Yusmarg by 11 am. As part of the initial itinerary, we had planned on doing the Doodhganga trek also which is barely 2 km to the west of Yusmarg, and is a fast-flowing river named after the water that churns into froth when passing over rocks and an ideal picnic spot too. But as it was raining incessantly that day and so we decided to trek somewhere more close by. Actually it was an ideal day to sit inside cozily with such a scenic view around and just enjoy tea and other refreshments. And so though it was raining heavily, the trekkers in our group  decided to explore the place a little more while the others waited at the only Jammu and Kashmir tourist restaurant in Yusmarg having their tea and snacks. 

Our group taking in the beautiful vistas at Yusmarg

As we stepped outside the restaurant, we could see a few horses/ponies and their handlers waiting outside and pleading with us, the visitors, to take a pony ride. They are Gujjars - a nomadic community in the Himalayas who live in the mountains and rear sheep. During winters they migrate to the villages and in the summers they go back to the mountains. We were not inclined towards taking a pony ride but we decided to engage the services of the handler to lead us on a short trek thru the meadows. So it was the pony, the handler and seven of us who decided to explore this place a little more. 

Our Trek Leader(s) for the day

On the Trek Trail in Yusmarg

Part of the Trek Trail, with streams flowing..

On our trek path in Yusmarg 

One of our team members posing with a Gujjar..a really
misty and scenic day at Yusmarg

 

Oh..it's so misty..amazing vistas at Yusmarg...

On our trek trail...Sheeps grazing in Yusmarg..

On our trek trail..lovely Gujjar Girls posing for us

Loved the rainy and cold trek here in the middle of beautiful meadows with ponies grazing, crossing streams, slush etc due to rains, not to forget the hot tea that we had after the trek at the only restaurant here. But we had to cut short our trek due to incessant rains and didn't want to keep the other group members waiting endlessly for us. So we returned to the restaurant for tea and snacks which we relished more in the cold weather. After that we decided to head back to the bus and back to Srinagar where we were put up for the night.

On our way back we stopped by to click some beautiful pictures along the way of 

shepherds handling their flock of sheep.

The Sheep and their handler - They are Gujjars who
are a nomadic community.

The sheep and their handler..another shepherd
 handling his flock...amazing sights along the way at Yusmarg

We also stopped by to greet a group of Kashmiri children who were going to school. We asked them if we could take their snaps and they happily obliged and were also very happy to receive the chocolates we gave them in return.

These lovely school kids were as excited to see us, as
we were to see them

Lovely school kids posing for us on our way back..
and they loved the chocolates that we gave them in return

And thus ended one more of my lovely and scenic treks with amazing vistas and great memories to cherish for a long time...Happy Trekking...!!

Tip for my trek buddies : If you are planning a trip to Kashmir make sure to include this place in your itinerary.  YUSMARG IS A TREKKER'S PARADISE.

A Monsoon Night Jungle Trek, A Walk in the Clouds & A Fireflies Show - June 2015

Late Blog....
If the Monsoons are here can trekking be far behind! Ah...we not only love the rains so much but trekking in the rains as well! Sharing experiences from my Rajmachi Trek done in June 2015.

About the Place 

Rajmachi (Udhewadi) is a small village in the rugged mountains of Sahyadris in India and falls between Lonavala and Karjat. It can be reached from either places. The fortification at Rajmachi consists of the twin forts, namely Shreevardhan fort and Manaranjan Fort. There are many trek routes one can take to reach Rajmachi and depending on the route taken the trek duration can range from 4 hours to 6 hours. We took the shorter but arduous route which involves a steep climb via the Kondane Caves passing thru dense forests.

Monsoon Vistas..Clouds gather along the way to Rajmachi

Local Travel 
Part of the team met at CST and took the fast train from CST to Karjat where the entire team met. Some group members joined us in the train from various other stations as per their convenience.The train was jam packed that day and the other passengers were venting out their anger on us as we had our bagpacks with us and the train was too crowded that day. People from Mumbai who travel often in trains can relate to this scene. Once we reached Karjat, which was a great relief from the maddening crowded train, we took the local transport (local rickshaw) to get to the Base Village, Kondivide. As soon as we sat in the rickshaw the rains started splashing and the first rains are always an amazing experience where you see the greenery start to come alive. At Kondivide village we had our tea and refreshments and after that the usual round of introduction of the entire team. In all we
were around 60 trekkers. Tea, Refreshments and Introductions done, we started our trek to Kondane Caves thru the wilderness.

After Tea and Refreshments the customary Group Introduction Round

Trekking our way to Rajmachi

A glimpse of the trekking route

Reaching Rajmachi via Kondane Caves
It takes 3 hours to reach Rajmachi or Udhewadi village from the base village. It is advisable to carry 2-3 litres of driking water per person. In all we had three stopovers, the first being the beautiful and serene Kondane Caves located in a small village, Kondana, between Lonavala and Karla Caves. The caves were excavated in first century B.C. Took a break here and spent time here for some photo-ops. We started our trek again and as we approached darkness we were stopped in our tracks by tiny yellow lights blinking over our heads and as we reached a clearing we could see thousands of fireflies fluttering above.

A glimpse of Kondane Buddhist Caves, our first stopover

Another Glimpse of Kondane Caves

 

Nice  photo-op at the Kondane Caves

Heading towards Rajmachi

The Fireflies Show 
One of the main added attractions of Rajmachi is the fireflies show that you get to witness in the dark dense jungle. Its like an open air theater and feels like hundreds of small search lights popping out of the trees. Could also see some fireflies hovering above our heads and it feels like a small shooting star zooming over you. Its a must watch, but this phenomenon happens only during the pre-monsoon period. Best time is from June 1-15 before monsoon deepens. Make sure to put off your torches to get the best view (that's why I don't have a fireflies show pic as even cameras can spoil the show). I guess we went at the right time as the monsoon had just started and the weather was extremely pleasant for trekking and we could see the fireflies show as well. Probably a week later and we would have missed the fireflies show. But as the monsoon advances one can get to see awesome waterfalls. We reached Rajmachi at 9:30 pm. We also had a birthday celebration for a fellow trekker and that went past midnight.

Beautiful views along the way....

Night Jungle Trek 

An awesome experience trekking in the night thru dense forests with only searchlights..it is quite thrilling and exciting...should say, made me a fan of night treks.

Food & Camping at the base village 
Enjoyed the dormitory type camping experience and the food was APRATEEM(too yummy).  We were treated to some awesome Kande Pohe and Chai for snacks and an equally yummy Thali food for dinner. Typical yummy village food and that too in the rains....a perfect combination! We slept only for a few hours after midnight before we were woken up by our trek lead again at 5:00 am.

Kande Pohe and Chai time at the Base Village...Yummy! Yummy!!

Beautiful lake near the base village...beautiful views along the way...

A Walk in the Clouds to Shreevardhan Fort 
Next day we all got up by 5am and freshened up a bit before starting our trek from Rajmachi to Shreevardhan fort by 5:30am. The early morning trek from Rajmachi to the top of Shreevardhan Fort turned out to be a WALK IN THE CLOUDS. Perfect weather. Superb experience. We skipped Manaranjan fort. Reached the Shreevardhan top by 6:30am. View from the top was awe inspiring.
We could locate Lonavala, Pawna Dam and The Duke's Nose from the top.  By the time we descended we were engulfed in fog and it drizzled a bit every now and then. After a breakfast of Pohe along with Chai, we took leave and started our descent from Rajmachi. An appetizing lunch awaited us at Kondivide Village. Post lunch we started our trip back to Mumbai.

And there is The Dukes Nose, a favorite rapelling point with Trekkers.

View of Rajmachi from Shreevardhan Fort

On top of the Shreevardhan Fort! What a View!!

Clouds begin to envelop the Mountains..View from Shreevardhan fort..Amazing vistas...!!

Group click on top of the Shreevardhan Fort!!

And Finally the Grand Group Click..after the Trek!! Happy Trekking!!

A Monsoon Night Jungle Trek, A Walk in the Clouds in the Sahyadris and a Fireflies show. Can a trekking experience get any better...Happy Trekking....:)

Trekking the Sahyadris -- Trek to Siddhagad in Malshej Ghats

Siddhagad View from base village

Back from one of the most thrilling treks and my toughest one till now in the Sahyadris  at Siddhagad fort in the Malshej Ghats with an amazing group of 15 people. It was a steep ascent rock climb made very very slippery due to heavy rains. Trekking in the sahyadris can be very dicey during rainy season but the scenic view is supposed to be the best during this period. We, a wonderful group of like minded trekkers took a private bus from Mumbai picking up people from various locations till the base village of Narivali. We had arranged for breakfast to be packed and brought in by a co-passenger and had it in the bus on the way itself. We halted at a place in between to grab a cup of tea. We reached the base village of Narivali at around 10:30 am from where we started our trek.

Siddhagad View

Way to Siddhagad

Greenery at the base village

About Siddhagad

It was a very rainy day. From the base village we could see the formation of the siddhagad mountain ranges. We arranged for a local guide to guide us through the trek. With heavy rains lashing us we trekked thru a very rocky terrain which was made very slippery due to the rains and with one side of the terrain always exposed. We were intercepted off & on with some really beautiful waterfalls on the way, force of which was compounded due to the rains and trekking thru these was really awesome with the water being very chill due to the rains. We came across some thrilling rocky patches and a traverse which was very risky and challenging to cross as one of the sides was always exposed. This was my first trek in the Sahyadris and I was not used to the slippery terrain.  Due to the very slippery rocks our pace was a bit slow and some of us took time to trek thru these. Three and a hours into our trek and we reached a village (the only one) where we had our lunch in the only shelter available.

Glimpse of  the only village

Lunch done we proceeded with our trek which took us thru a jungle path. It was very misty due to the rains and the entire pathway was looking heavenly with the mist falling on us and was enough to keep one hypnotized. This was the only pathway or stretch which was not very rocky though. We reached more than the halfway mark at around 2:30 pm or so and after a brief rest decided to split into two groups where one group proceeded to the top of the summit while the others decided to start returning back to the base village as we had to cross the same difficult patches on our return journey before sunset. Since I was not very comfortable with going any further on the slippery rocky path, I decided to return back with the other group and we started our return trek downwards.

A Steep Ascent Indeed!!

Steep Climb to the top!!

Rains and Waterfalls!!

Rains and Waterfalls!!

Generally, climbing down is always more difficult than climbing up and I had my share of falls on the slippery terrain with a little bruises here and there. There were many stretches where we had to literally slide down the path due to the slippery & rocky terrain. There were many large rocks which had become loose due to the constant rains. Crossing thru the traverse was truly a hair-raising experience for me as I had never done anything like this before. There are many thrilling sports like bungee jumping, para gliding etc where its mostly the equipment that has to perform but rock climbing/trekking is something where clearly YOU HAVE TO PERFORM. There is no other way out. Getting a grip was next to impossible due to the slippery terrain and all of us had to really perform a perfect balancing act and a very risky one at that to cross the traverse. Just turn your eyes a little here and you could see a breathtaking 2500-3000 ft valley down. One mis-step and you go straight down. There was no other way out. Either you PERFORM or PERISH. My trek leader and other team mates guided me & other team members perfectly and with a lot of patience thru some of the most thrilling and risky patches including the traverse and we managed to cross the same safely. But I will never forget those hair-raising moments of my trek ever. These situations test your mental strengths more than your physical ones.

On our way back we reached the same village (and the only one) where we had lunch and we requested one of the families in the village to prepare tea for us. It was a much needed break for all of us and as we waited for the cup that cheers to arrive, pulled out our snacks to munch with it. Tea & snacks done, and a little rested now, we started our trek again. Three hours into our trek down and we were joined by the remaining team which had reached the summit. All of us managed to cross the traverse safely before sunset. 

View from the top

We were still on our way down and suddenly it started getting dark and within a short time it was pitch dark. Time to switch on our torches. Trekking in pitch dark in the slippery rocky terrain being lashed with heavy rains off & on was a great challenge in itself and required a tremendous amount of patience from the entire team. The rocky terrain never seemed to end...which set me to think aloud.."Yeh to Katam hi nahin honda' (This does not seem to end!!). With the entire team guiding one another we managed to reach the base village at around 9:00 pm. Hopped onto our bus and went in for a change of clothes as all of us were totally wet and muddy. We started our return journey to Mumbai by 10:00 pm. All of us got down at our respective locations from where we took other means of transport to get to our homes. I finally reached home by around 1:00 am. 

All in all an amazing experience which tested my endurance levels to the hilt!! Apart from bringing us closer to nature and exploring the flora and fauna, a trek like this helps to boost your confidence to a great extent. It also helps you handle extreme situations by testing you in different ways. It also teaches you to be self-reliant, be patient and at the same time be a team player. A Perform or Perish situation always tends to bring out the best in all of us!!

Exploring the beauty of the Western Ghats - A trek to the legendary Dudhsagar Waterfalls in Goa

Just back from another scenic tour of the Western Ghats and that too during peak Monsoons!! Was unsure about making it to this trip till the last moment as I was unwell, but as I got a bit better decided to risk this one as I could not resist visiting Dudhsagar falls as I had heard and read a lot about this place and its scenic view. Challenges were heavy rains, walking around 14 + 11 kms on active railway tracks, encountering wild insects including leeches and also walking thru dark tunnels.

Back from exploring the legendary Dudhsagar (Sea of Milk) waterfalls, one of the most scenic wateralls in India located in the border of the states of Goa & Karnataka. Though perennial, the beauty of the waterfall increases multi-fold during the rainy season. Dudhsagar is a four-tiered waterfall located on the Mandovi River in Goa. It is about 60 km from state capital Panaji. Water plummets from a height of over 1,000 ft and 100 feet wide to form one of  the most amazing natural phenomena in Goa and true to its name it is indeed a SEA OF MILK!!

The Legend :
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According to legend, the waterfall was once the abode of a beautiful princess. The princess used to drink sweetened milk from a golden jug after she took a bath. One day, she spotted a prince watching her while she drank the milk. She poured the milk on the prince to form a milk curtain to hide her modesty and hence the name Dudhsagar.

The roads leading to the waterfall remain closed during the monsoon and open in October. Trekking to the waterfall is very popular and so if one is bored of visiting beaches in Goa, then a trek to Dudhsagar is a great option.

There are 4 possible ways to get to this scenic place :
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Route 1 : Castle Rock - During monsoon, the trek from Castle Rock railway station to the waterfall is very popular and the ONLY ONE POSSIBLE. It is about 14 km long and offers amazing views of the valley.

Route 2 : Kulem Route - This is equally scenic but less popular as compared to Route 1. One has to get down at Kulem railway station and walk towards the falls which is about 11 km away. It normally takes 4–5 hours to reach. The famous photograph of Trains passing through before the waterfalls can be seen in this route and also the complete stretch of the falls will be visible while you hike towards the waterfalls.

Famous View of the train passing thru the Dudhsagar falls

Route 3 : In Kulem one can hire a SUV to reach the foot of the Dudhsagar waterfalls. There is a taxi stand called 'Dudhsagar Taxi stand' where one can hire a vehicle and get dropped near the falls which is just 1 km hike from the dropping point but it cannot be used during monsoon season.

Route 4 : (Kuveshi-Dudhsagar)
This is the most adventurous route and cannot be attempted in monsoon since one has to cross the Mandovi river during the hike. The hike starts from a village called Kuveshi around 10 km from Castle Rock railway station. The hike is through thick jungle and is difficult to complete without experience. By this route, one can reach Dudhsagar Railway station which is 1 km from the falls.

Challenges & Precautions :
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(1) Railway Tracks and Dark Tunnels - Involves trekking in an active railway track with trains coming & going. If a train comes while you are walking on the track be prepared to move away from the track as you will have fair amount of time to move away. But you have to be very cautious when you are in a tunnel and you face a train. If you are in a tunnel and face a train, please turn towards the wall, remove your bag and bend down, because some goods trains have the doors open and there are chances of hitting you though very rare. A good torch is a must in this trek.

Tunnel

(2) Peak Monsoons - but also the best time to visit these falls. So be prepared to get soaked in the rain or carry a poncho/raincoat, umbrella etc.

(3) Leech Attacks - one has to be very cautious about the leech attacks. In case you get attacked by leeches, carry some salt and apply it over the leech, hence advisable to wear sports shoes while on this trek.

We were a group of 55 from Mumbai & Pune with the entire mumbai group meeting up at Dadar station to take the train to Pune. The Pune team then caught up with the Mumbai team at Pune station and we all took the Goa Express from Pune to Kulem. The train journey was enjoyable with the entire group having a great time playing various Card games, Antakshari etc and/or just chatting and bonding with each other. 

Off beat adventure decided during the trip :

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Detour somewhere between Castlerock station & Dudhsagar where the train does a TECHNICAL HALT FOR 30 seconds or so @ around 4:30am (this was done to avoid a longer rail track trek one way and reach the falls by just a 1 km walk on the track). Team of 55 split into 11 each with 2 leaders per team thru different exits. Do the MATH and it works out to 2-3 seconds per person...plan is to jump down some 2-3 feet directly on to the ground during the technical halt in that obscure spot (no platform) one by one and remember its just dark wilderness all around. All ready @ 4:30 am as per plan waiting for THE GREAT 30 SECOND JUMP. All sorts of thoughts going thru our mind and talking loudly...what if I am not able to make it?..what if part of the team makes and part does not?..where will we land? etc..just then out of no where 3-4 chaiwallas bump into all of us one after the other selling tea/coffee at that odd time increasing our impatience & blood pressure!! Train does first halt, ready to jump, suddenly hear a voice that this is not the place. Train starts again..suddenly we get the message that we are on the wrong side and amidst all the confusion all immediately rush to the other side. Train halts again..ready to jump...we hear the shout "JUMP"...1 down, 2 down, 3 down, 4 down(includes me)...then we hear the shout.."THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT PLACE"..(oh..gosh!!)..all back up again..1 up, 2 up, 3 up, 4 up...we hear the shout again.."No, No, No...THIS IS THE RIGHT SPOT"..(oh man..we are loosing precious seconds here & we have to do it all over again!!).... NO TIME TO THINK..JUST DO IT !!..luckily all manage to jump off just in time...all I can remember is landing on small pieces of uneven stones normally used in rail tracks and to make way for others I remember stepping aside & found my feet in some deep wet muddy sand. Once we ensured that all had made it and the train left (which I must say was perfectly timed)..it was a great sense of relief. Waited till day break and started our trek towards the falls @ around 6:00 am. We were hit off and on by heavy rains but it didn't matter as we were close to reaching the main falls anytime now.

Once you reach the falls you are completely overwhelmed with the beauty of it. Just stood there soaking in the beauty of the magnificent falls for a long time. Awesome, Enchanting, Beautiful, Scenic...can use as much words as we want but will fall short of describing this natural beauty. Truely, NATURE has its own ways of OVERWHELMING us. Had just completed a tour of mesmerizing LADAKH recently in the Himalayas and now standing in front of this majestic Dudhsagar waterfalls in Goa! INCREDIBLE INDIA at its very best and I am sure there are many more beautiful places to explore in this great country!! Took our cameras and went click, click, click on all directions, views, angles possible. Water force is very high during the monsoons and its better not to take a chance to go to the bottom of falls as it is quite dangerous with slippery rocks. 

After our photo sessions, had some tea at the only tea stall nearby there and started back on our rail track trek of 11 kms to Kulem station. We were hit off and on by heavy rains, the tracks were slippery at places, very dark in the tunnels but it was a pleasure doing this trek soaking in the rains.  One needs to be cautious about trains approaching from either side though you can make out much in advance by their sound etc. and finally had to be careful about lurking insects etc. A few of us got attacked by leeches during the trek. Otherwise the return trek provides great views of the falls including the famous train view passing thru the falls. Some of us managed to get the train view photo-op while some of us missed it. Midway on the trek, some from our group requested a goods train driver for a ride till Kulem station and he was gracious enough to oblige us with one. So some of us hitched a ride on the goods train engine. I also hopped into it as it looked very exciting to me as I had never travelled on a goods train engine ever. Was my 'Chaiya Chaiya' moment!! 

Ride in the Goods Train!!

On reaching Kulem station, we freshened up at the Kulem station waiting room, had our lunch, played some games waiting for our return train till Pune which arrived at 4:30 pm or so. Hopped into the train and spent the evening & night chatting and relaxing with the group. Train reached Pune at 3:40 am. Time to say goodbye to our friends from Pune. Goodbyes done..and the Mumbai group got into another bus from outside the Pune station and returned back to Mumbai at around 8 am.

Even though our trek was reduced to some extent it was more than compensated by the really exciting 30 second jump that really pumped up my heart neatly and the unusual opportunity to travel on a goods train....and of course the enchanting beauty of the Dudhsagar waterfalls..!!