Trek to Kalsubai - The highest peak in Maharashtra (October 2013)

I don't think I am cut out for trekking...
I might as well stick to writing code...

Chale Chalo....Keep going....the last stretch
leading to the top of Kalsubai

These were my thoughts after an earlier trek done at Siddhagad in Malshej Ghats region which turned out to be very challenging and slippery due to heavy rains. It was also scary, as there were a couple of traverses to be crossed and most of the trek route was OPEN making every step taken that much more risky. I have written a separate blog on this particular trek experience. After Siddhagad, I was trying to analyze why I struggled with it so much and in talking to other people, experienced trekkers, reading blogs etc, I more or less came to the conclusion that, it was more the rainy terrain and coupled with it the fact that the trek route was open, which made Siddhagad trek that much more challenging. Siddhagad was my second trek, the earlier one being Tikona which was a quite a simple one. So when my friend asked me if I would like to join her on a trek to Kalsubai, which is the highest peak in Maharashtra, I was a bit confused and hesitant. I called up the trek leader and organizer and asked him about the difficulty level of the trek and explained to him the situation I had faced earlier in my Siddhagad trek. He told me that Kalsubai is a high endurance trek but there was nothing to be worried about as as there were no traverses to be crossed or it being dangerously exposed etc. and that it is very doable, if one is fit. I thought over this and finally decided to give this a shot and not let my earlier experience overshadow me too much and went ahead and registered for the trek. I am glad I did this trek, as after I completed this trek successfully, I regained all my confidence back and went on to do other challenging and extreme treks including THE CHADAR TREK in the Ladakh region of the Himalayas and other treks like Harishchandragad etc in the Sahyadris.

About Kalsubai

Kalsubai (कळसूबाई) is a mountain in the Western Ghats, located in the Indian state of Maharashtra. It's summit, situated at an elevation of 1646 metres (5400 feet) is the highest point in Maharashtra which earns it the much glorified title of the 'Everest of Maharashtra'. The mountain range lies within the Kalsubai Harishchandragad Wildlife Sanctuary.The truncated summit provides a modest area of flat land which holds a sacred temple of a local deity. It is visited throughout the year by Avid Trekkers, Kalsubai Temple Devotees and Wildlife Enthusiasts alike. 

Temple at the Top: Devotees and Trekkers relaxing outside the
temple after reaching the top and visiting the temple

The mountain can be viewed in its entirety, from Bari village located on its eastern side, about six km from Bhandardara. It can be reached by road, via Igatpuri, on the Mumbai-Nasik route.

The Legend

According to the villagers living at the base of the mountain, a woman name Kalsu was punished by villagers and forced to leave the village, and that, the woman climbed the mountain and started living on it, and later died there, giving the mountain its name. Another story says that Kalsubai was a house maid residing in a nearby village. She is believed to have disappeared near the mountain while trying to escape her employer's relentless torment. This lends the mountain its current name as well as a reason for this temple to be built in her fond memory.

On the Kalsubai Trek Trail...Navratri Fair set
up for the devotees

A traditional prayer service is held every Tuesday and Thursday by a priest. During the festival of Navratri a fair is organized each year with many stalls being set up near the summit to provide pooja materials to the devotees. On these special occasions local villagers participate in this fair which helps to supplement their livelihood and as well as provides them an opportunity to revere the mountain.

On the Trek Trail...Navratri fair set up for the
devotees and trekkers

Views

From the top of Kalsubai, one can view other forts like Harihargad, Brahmagiri, Anjaneri, Tringalwadi, Kavnai, Vishramgad, Alang, Madangad, Kulang, Ratangad, Harishchandragad etc and also the backwaters of the Bhandardara dam.

About the trek

Our trek group had organized a private transport bus from Dadar TT circle and we all met up and departed Dadar by 11 pm.The bus picked up other trekkers from various other pick-up points along the way and we drove thru the night and reached the base camp of Bari Village by 3am. It takes 3-4 hours drive from mumbai to reach Bari, the base village and since it was night and pitch dark, we didn't even realize when we had reached the base village. We got down the bus, walked for about 15 minutes or so and reached what looked like a rest house. We unloaded our bags and freshened up a bit. Post tea and breakfast of hot poha, we started our trek by 6am. 

On the Trek Trail...Crossing a lovely stream on the way

Our group on the trek trail...Chale Chalo...

It was the first day of Navratri and these 9 days are sacred for the locals. We could see many local villagers climbing up, some even with bare feet and some even carrying their kids to the Devi temple at the top for getting the blessings of the Goddess. Also since it was the end of the rainy season, we were greeted by showers off and on throughout the trek.

Some bright captures on the way as the
sun plays hide and seek with us...

On the trek trail..treated to some amazing views on the way

Views on the trek trail...

It took us almost 3.5 hours to reach the top and roughly the same time to get back. So be prepared to keep yourself hydrated and fit for a continuous 4-8 hours trek depending on your fitness levels. 

On the trek trail..View of the village from the top with
its colorful Navratri Stalls 

Unfortunately for us, since it was a rainy day, the top was covered in mist and we could not see the other peaks clearly. We spent about an hour or so at the top enjoying the view and visiting the temple, taking pictures etc while also waiting for the other group members to join us. 

On the trek trail...Group click on the way...

Misty View from the top...

After that, we started our descent which took us roughly the same time as it took us to get to the top. Since it was raining, the trek was a bit slippery and muddy/slushy too. We reached the base village of Bari by 1pm where a sumptuous village thali/lunch was waiting for us at the village guest house. Post lunch, we started our journey back home to Mumbai by the private transport bus that we had arranged.

Complexity

Kalsubai a high endurance trek and personally, I would rate it as somewhere between moderate and difficult depending on one's fitness but definitely a doable one for most people. 

IT'S ALWAYS GREAT TO BE AT THE TOP..
And finally the Group Click at the top

Since Kalsubai is very famous, enough effort has been made to make this trek experience easy. There are steel railings, chains  and ladders at places where it is difficult to climb. There is also a symbolic temple at the top.

Steel railings on the way to the top...

Must Do

It is always great to be at the top and Kalsubai is a must do for every trekker in Maharashtra for the sheer fact that it is the highest peak in Maharashtra.

BHUTAN DIARIES - Trek to TAKTSANG PALPHUG or TIGER'S NEST (April 2017)

Mountains and the Sacred

Mountains loom large in any landscape and have long been invested with sacredness by many people around the world. The presumption is that the divine or some supernatural or spiritual force is manifesting itself to the beholder, who feels privileged thereby. 

Mountains and the Sacred - A close view of Tiger's Nest
or Taktsang Pahphug

THE BEST VIEWS COME AFTER THE HARDEST CLIMB!!

These could be some inspirational sayings that could explain why sacred sanctuaries exist so far up in the mountains. Looks like they are built almost halfway between the HEAVEN and the EARTH.

Mountains and the Sacred - Somewhere between
Heaven and Earth

A HIKE TO TIGER'S NEST - a challenge for some and a pilgrimage for others is an essential part and one of the MAIN HIGHLIGHTS of any visit to Bhutan.

TIGER'S NEST or TAKTSANG PALPHUG - THE LEGEND

Legend has it that PADMASAMBHAVA also known as GURU RINPOCHE or 'PRECIOUS MASTER' or 'SECOND BUDDHA' arrived in the Himalayas in Bhutan on the back of a flying tigress, that before being reborn and transformed, was his disciple. 

An Image of Guru Rinpoche or the
Second Buddha

Guru Rinpoche had flown from TIBET to tame a mountain tiger demon who lived in the darkness inside the caves around PARO VALLEY. After he succeeded and the demon was tamed, he consecrated the caves and turned them into shrines where he meditated for years and spread Buddhism to the Bhutanese in the following decades. One of these caves, located in a towering cliff 10000 feet above sea level and 3000 feet from the valley floor, is the TAKTSANG PALPHUG Monastery, or the TIGER's NEST. It is thought the Devotees motivated to keep the legend alive, built this CASTLE IN THE AIR in 1692. Visitors report that due to humidity in the surrounding area, the monastery is mostly shrouded by mist or is covered by tiny clouds floating above, giving the temple an even more ethereal and surreal look. It was a favorite refuge for local monks and Buddhists, and by the look of it, this should come as no surprise. Visitors can gain access to this gorgeous 17th century Buddhist temple solely by foot. The climb is a very long and steep path up the Himalayan cliffside but definitely a doable one. On the plus side, the atmosphere is fabulous, the view over the Paro Valley is gorgeous and the many small cave shrines that are now a part of the temple complex definitely provide the patience and the strength to those who wish to reach the cliff hanging TAKTSANG PALPHUG. 

As you can see the Uphill climb is immediate and ahead of me you can
see some people using the mule to trek up...

I had been postponing my Bhutan Visit as I had done Ladakh twice before this and had seen many Monasteries as part of my earlier visits to other places too and so Bhutan didn't appeal to me for quite sometime. But I love trekking and it was the Tiger's Nest trek which caught my fancy and I finally decided to do the Bhutan Trip and I am glad that I did it because the serenity of this trek overwhelms you in many ways especially towards the last part. 

And there I am with part of my group already
on the way up to Taktsang....

One needs to be fit enough to do the entire trek by foot though one can rent a horse till a little above the half-way mark, beyond which, even horses can't climb and so the only option is by foot. Personally I would rate this as a 'Moderate' trek.

A quick early breakfast done at the hotel, we reached the Tiger's Nest entry point by 7:45 am and started our trek by 8 am. One has to purchase entry tickets at the BASE. One can also take walking sticks on rent from the Base. Make sure to carry enough water to keep yourself hydrated for anywhere between 4-6 hours (estimated trek time) and possibly more depending on one's fitness. 

Take your pick and start right away....

On the trek trail...

ANYONE CAN DO THIS TREK...

There is no limitation on anyone doing this trek and our group had the best mix of people ranging from an 11 year old to an 82 year old who completed the trek as well and was a great inspiration to all of us in the group. As the saying goes "WHERE THERE IS A WILL, THERE IS A WAY".

And there you can see the 82 year old member from our group slowly
 making his way up...what an inspiration

Beginning at the base of the PARO valley, the trail winds its way through a forest of deciduous trees and one can see beautiful rhododendrons along the way especially during spring. The uphill climb is immediate with periodical jagged stone steps along the way and also inclined dirt slopes. You are enveloped by trees providing the needed shade. Somewhere halfway along the way, you get the first glimpse of the monastery and you can feel the excitement rising within. 

On the trek trail...with a lot of tree cover...

So SERENE...One can really feel the SERENITY
as you keep trekking...

Enjoy the trek trail as you see lovely Rhododendron trees
in bloom on the trek trail....

Halfway

At the halfway mark, we were told that a one minute walk down would take us to a tea stop if we needed a rest, but we decide to continue on and stop on the way back to beat the afternoon heat and also the unpredictable Himalayan weather as we were exposed to Thunderstorms and rain the previous days. 

And there is the Halfway mark..and you can see the Tiger's Nest temple
in the background..but still a long way to go...

One of the Nature Sign Posts along the way...
Keep climbing...

You keep continuing uphill, and you are periodically teased by glimpses of TATKSANG coming closer and looking more beautiful. 

Almost 3/4 th of way up done..but yes...
still some way to go...

Me and my 11 year old group mate who kept
me company for the entire trek...

Finally, just when you feel you have more or less reached the top be prepared for some REAL THRILL. You are greeted by the most STUNNING VIEW YET - a set of stairs heading down leading to a sacred waterfall, after which the stairs wind up again to the wooden gate of the Tiger's Nest (according to locals around 700 stairs or so). 

A glimpse of the sacred waterfall in between the up
and down stair climb...

Beautiful view of Paro Valley from the
View Point which is on the way

At the gate, one can see lot of prayer flags hung across and as they blow in the Himalayan Breeze, one can feel the timelessness and sanctity of this cliff-side temple. You have to remove your footwear before entering the temple. 

Prayer Flags along the way...

Inside the temple, we hired a guide to walk us through the various cave like shrines, including the cave where Padmasambhava is supposed to have meditated. We lighted yak butter candles and spent about 45 minutes to an hour before preparing ourselves for the climb back down.

The Return Journey

The return journey is much faster but equally dramatic what with the stair climbing sequence now REVERSED. You will find lot of local people and tourists on the way, who will keep cheering you and encouraging you to keep walking.

Another beautiful view of the Paro Valley
from the View Point

There is only one restaurant situated mid-way and the pricing of eatables available is on the expensive side. There is also a souvenir shop in this area in case one needs to purchase some souvenirs.

Prayer Wheels on the way....such an important part
of the Buddhist Tradition

In speaking with the local people/guides on the way, we were told that in all there are some 700/800 or more stairs leading up to the monastery gate. Side-railings have been put up on the entire stair-case route leading up to the monastery. Once you reach the gate, you have to hand over your wallets, cameras etc at the gate counter. Please note that in Bhutan there is a dress code to be followed especially while visiting religious places. Photography is prohibited inside the Temple. There is also a small area where you can refill your water bottles with some pure water. 

The monastery caught fire in 1998 possibly from butter lamps but was restored to its former glory.

About two hours uphill, an hour spent inside the monastery and about 2 hours downhill including a brief stop at the cafeteria, I along with some of my group managed to reach the base by 1-1:30 pm.

There is a small handicraft market area at the basement from where you can buy jewellery and other craft items. 

Trek done and pleased, I got into our bus which was waiting for us and waited for the other group members to finish and join us. Finally about an hour or so later the remaining group members arrived and as soon as they entered the bus, we were greeted by thunderstorms and rains. We were relieved to be back in the comfort of the bus and headed back to the place where we were put up, where a well deserved late lunch was awaiting us.

The Tiger's Nest Trek is normally scheduled somewhere mid-way or towards the end of any Bhutan tour to allow time for people to acclimatize to the altitude and weather in Bhutan.

Hanging suspended in the air as if they are reaching towards GOD, these monasteries serve to prove that a quest for silence, serenity and inner peace can be so great as to drive humans to build these amazing Castles in the Air.

Kashmir Diaries : Trek to Hari Parbhat - A fort steeped in History (April 2016)

Kashmir Diaries : Trek to Hari Parbhat  

One of the very beautiful highlights of our Kashmir Trip in April 2016 was a visit to Badaam Wari(Almond Garden) in Srinagar, Kashmir, which rests in the foothills of Koh-E-Maran. This 300 kanal garden is dotted with trees, flowers and cascades which turn it into a beautiful and soothing sight.

Entry gate of Badaam Wari or The Almond Garden

This is another beautiful offbeat place in Kashmir and it is relatively less crowded compared to the other hot destinations like the various Mughal Gardens. So you can relax and enjoy this place to the fullest. Thousands of Almond trees grow all over Kashmir and for the local people the blooming of almond flowers indicate the onset of spring. The Almonds from these gardens are known for their superior taste and high quality.

Group Click at Badaam Wari with
 part of our group

Badaam Wari done, and loads of pics taken, we decided to check out the possibility of trekking the Hari Parbhat fort which was very close-by.

One of the sign posts on the way...

This fort is currently occupied by the army and tourists need to get entry permit from the Archeological Department's office at Lal Mandi in Srinagar to visit this fort. We were lucky that this fort was open at the time we went as many a time and for many years this fort has been closed to the public due to security reasons. So when we got to know that the fort visit was open for the day, the trekkers in our group immediately decided to jump in on this opportunity to trek this fort, as opportunities such as these are rare and not to miss and having come from so far and given the security situation in Kashmir.

Hari Parbhat Fort - History

And  you can see the Hari Parbhat fort clearly in view..

Hari Parbhat is the only surviving fort in the Kashmir region of the state of Jammu & Kashmir. It stands over a hill also known as Koh-I-Maran and originally was a site of a fort built by Emperor Akbar. He had also built a large fortification wall at the base of the Hill, parts of which survive even today. The present structure was built by the Afghans, when Kashmir was part of the Afghan Durani Empire under Shah Shuja Durani. Ironically, Shah Shuja Durani was himself held prisoner in the fort by the Governor of Kashmir, Atta Muhammed Khan. Atta Muhammed Khan had invited Shah Shuja to come to Kashmir from where he could still go on ruling as the King of Afghanistan. Shah Shuja took up the offer only to find himself as Atta Muhammed Khan's prisoner at the Hari Parbhat fort. However a force of Durani Afghans in alliance with the Sikhs of Maharaja Ranjit Singh landed in Kashmir soon and the Sikhs got Shah Shuja Durani free from his prison inside the Hari Parbhat fort. The Sikh flag of Maharaja Ranjit Singh finally flew over the Hari Parbhat fort when the Sikhs under the able leadership of Gen. Hari Singh Malwa finally defeated the Afghans in 1820. After a brief rule of Sikh rule in Kashmir the fort changed hands and landed in the hands of the Dogras led by Raja Gulab Singh after the Sikh loss in the First Anglo Sikh war of 1846. The Dogra rule lasted for about 100 years and in 1947 it became part of India and since then the fort has been occupied by the Security Forces.

It is a lovely trek, about 1 km uphill and not too strenuous with some amazing views of Srinagar on the way to the top.

On the way up...

This fort still stands as proud as ever on the vantage point overlooking the Srinagar City.

An amazing view of Srinagar on the trek trail

An inside view of the Hari Parbhat fort...

A view of Srinagar through the Barricades...

The fort Hillside holds some important places of worship for various religious inclinations. There is the shrine of Makhroom Sahib, a saint held in great reverence by the Kashmiri Muslims. There is the Shakira Devi Mandir, who is worshipped as an Incarnation of SHAKTI. Then there is the Chati Padshahi Gurudwara, where the sixth Guru, Guru HarGobind had supposedly preached and stayed for a few days during a visit to Kashmir.

Another view of Srinagar
with a part of the Shakira Temple in view

On the Trek Trail

Trek Trail on our way back...

And our trek ends...

Hari Parbhat stands as a SENTINEL which silently watches over the myriads of events which have happened in this troubled land over the years.

A view from inside the fort...

And it still keeps watching....with the MIGHTY PIR PANJALS in the background.

Trekking in Kashmir - Offbeat Yusmarg (April 2016)

About Yusmarg

Scenic Yusmarg

There are a couple of legends surrounding the origins of Yusmarg’s name. One hints at ‘Yusmarg’ being a corruption of ‘Roosmarg’, or ‘meadow of the musk deer’. Another one comes from a belief that Jesus Christ spent some of his ‘lost’ years in India, and passed 
through Yusmarg, earning it the name ‘Meadow of Jesus’. It is believed by the natives that Jesus came to Kashmir and stayed at Yusmarg for some time. Located at an altitude of 2396 meters above sea level and set amidst the pristine woods and gorgeous panoramic vistas, this place reminds you of the painting you would have done as a kid in school. 

So Picturesque - Ideal for a painting. Lovely
cottages set amidst the meadows.

The drive to this place takes one thru breathtaking vistas being flanked by the orchards of apples, peaches and almonds.  It is an alpine valley covered with snow clad mountains and the meadows of Pine and Fir and located in the Pir Panjal Peaks, a sub range of Himalaya. It is situated at the bank of Doodhganga River which is a tributary of Jhelum River.

An Offbeat place away from the usual commercial touristy spots

This place looks pristine, hidden and unspoilt from commercial tourism. One can hardly spot any crowd here and there is only one restaurant in Yusmarg managed by the Jammu and Kashmir tourism department. 

The only restaurant built by the J&K tourism department

The Jammu and Kashmir tourist department has built lovely cottages on these meadows. In 2017, I had the opportunity to visit Scotland and Bhutan as part of my travels, and somehow, the beauty of both these places reminded me a bit about Kashmir. However its not fair to do comparisons as each place has its own unique beauty in different seasons and has its own culture.  

Lovely cottages dotted along the meadows.

My earlier visit to Srinagar as part of my Ladakh tour in July 2013 got curtailed due to a sudden civil unrest in the region and our entire group got caught in curfew and so we could do only a limited sightseeing in Srinagar in the evening after sunset for 3-4 hours when the curfew was relaxed. Luckily this was in the fag end of our main Ladakh tour which went off very well otherwise. So when I got an opportunity to do a full Kashmir tour in April 2016, which included Sonamarg, Gulmarg, Yusmarg, Srinagar etc , I opted for it.  

It was a rainy and misty trek for us at Yusmarg

After couple of hours of scenic ride by bus from Srinagar, we reached Yusmarg by 11 am. As part of the initial itinerary, we had planned on doing the Doodhganga trek also which is barely 2 km to the west of Yusmarg, and is a fast-flowing river named after the water that churns into froth when passing over rocks and an ideal picnic spot too. But as it was raining incessantly that day and so we decided to trek somewhere more close by. Actually it was an ideal day to sit inside cozily with such a scenic view around and just enjoy tea and other refreshments. And so though it was raining heavily, the trekkers in our group  decided to explore the place a little more while the others waited at the only Jammu and Kashmir tourist restaurant in Yusmarg having their tea and snacks. 

Our group taking in the beautiful vistas at Yusmarg

As we stepped outside the restaurant, we could see a few horses/ponies and their handlers waiting outside and pleading with us, the visitors, to take a pony ride. They are Gujjars - a nomadic community in the Himalayas who live in the mountains and rear sheep. During winters they migrate to the villages and in the summers they go back to the mountains. We were not inclined towards taking a pony ride but we decided to engage the services of the handler to lead us on a short trek thru the meadows. So it was the pony, the handler and seven of us who decided to explore this place a little more. 

Our Trek Leader(s) for the day

On the Trek Trail in Yusmarg

Part of the Trek Trail, with streams flowing..

On our trek path in Yusmarg 

One of our team members posing with a Gujjar..a really
misty and scenic day at Yusmarg

 

Oh..it's so misty..amazing vistas at Yusmarg...

On our trek trail...Sheeps grazing in Yusmarg..

On our trek trail..lovely Gujjar Girls posing for us

Loved the rainy and cold trek here in the middle of beautiful meadows with ponies grazing, crossing streams, slush etc due to rains, not to forget the hot tea that we had after the trek at the only restaurant here. But we had to cut short our trek due to incessant rains and didn't want to keep the other group members waiting endlessly for us. So we returned to the restaurant for tea and snacks which we relished more in the cold weather. After that we decided to head back to the bus and back to Srinagar where we were put up for the night.

On our way back we stopped by to click some beautiful pictures along the way of 

shepherds handling their flock of sheep.

The Sheep and their handler - They are Gujjars who
are a nomadic community.

The sheep and their handler..another shepherd
 handling his flock...amazing sights along the way at Yusmarg

We also stopped by to greet a group of Kashmiri children who were going to school. We asked them if we could take their snaps and they happily obliged and were also very happy to receive the chocolates we gave them in return.

These lovely school kids were as excited to see us, as
we were to see them

Lovely school kids posing for us on our way back..
and they loved the chocolates that we gave them in return

And thus ended one more of my lovely and scenic treks with amazing vistas and great memories to cherish for a long time...Happy Trekking...!!

Tip for my trek buddies : If you are planning a trip to Kashmir make sure to include this place in your itinerary.  YUSMARG IS A TREKKER'S PARADISE.