BHUTAN DIARIES - Trek to TAKTSANG PALPHUG or TIGER'S NEST (April 2017)

Mountains and the Sacred

Mountains loom large in any landscape and have long been invested with sacredness by many people around the world. The presumption is that the divine or some supernatural or spiritual force is manifesting itself to the beholder, who feels privileged thereby. 

Mountains and the Sacred - A close view of Tiger's Nest
or Taktsang Pahphug

THE BEST VIEWS COME AFTER THE HARDEST CLIMB!!

These could be some inspirational sayings that could explain why sacred sanctuaries exist so far up in the mountains. Looks like they are built almost halfway between the HEAVEN and the EARTH.

Mountains and the Sacred - Somewhere between
Heaven and Earth

A HIKE TO TIGER'S NEST - a challenge for some and a pilgrimage for others is an essential part and one of the MAIN HIGHLIGHTS of any visit to Bhutan.

TIGER'S NEST or TAKTSANG PALPHUG - THE LEGEND

Legend has it that PADMASAMBHAVA also known as GURU RINPOCHE or 'PRECIOUS MASTER' or 'SECOND BUDDHA' arrived in the Himalayas in Bhutan on the back of a flying tigress, that before being reborn and transformed, was his disciple. 

An Image of Guru Rinpoche or the
Second Buddha

Guru Rinpoche had flown from TIBET to tame a mountain tiger demon who lived in the darkness inside the caves around PARO VALLEY. After he succeeded and the demon was tamed, he consecrated the caves and turned them into shrines where he meditated for years and spread Buddhism to the Bhutanese in the following decades. One of these caves, located in a towering cliff 10000 feet above sea level and 3000 feet from the valley floor, is the TAKTSANG PALPHUG Monastery, or the TIGER's NEST. It is thought the Devotees motivated to keep the legend alive, built this CASTLE IN THE AIR in 1692. Visitors report that due to humidity in the surrounding area, the monastery is mostly shrouded by mist or is covered by tiny clouds floating above, giving the temple an even more ethereal and surreal look. It was a favorite refuge for local monks and Buddhists, and by the look of it, this should come as no surprise. Visitors can gain access to this gorgeous 17th century Buddhist temple solely by foot. The climb is a very long and steep path up the Himalayan cliffside but definitely a doable one. On the plus side, the atmosphere is fabulous, the view over the Paro Valley is gorgeous and the many small cave shrines that are now a part of the temple complex definitely provide the patience and the strength to those who wish to reach the cliff hanging TAKTSANG PALPHUG. 

As you can see the Uphill climb is immediate and ahead of me you can
see some people using the mule to trek up...

I had been postponing my Bhutan Visit as I had done Ladakh twice before this and had seen many Monasteries as part of my earlier visits to other places too and so Bhutan didn't appeal to me for quite sometime. But I love trekking and it was the Tiger's Nest trek which caught my fancy and I finally decided to do the Bhutan Trip and I am glad that I did it because the serenity of this trek overwhelms you in many ways especially towards the last part. 

And there I am with part of my group already
on the way up to Taktsang....

One needs to be fit enough to do the entire trek by foot though one can rent a horse till a little above the half-way mark, beyond which, even horses can't climb and so the only option is by foot. Personally I would rate this as a 'Moderate' trek.

A quick early breakfast done at the hotel, we reached the Tiger's Nest entry point by 7:45 am and started our trek by 8 am. One has to purchase entry tickets at the BASE. One can also take walking sticks on rent from the Base. Make sure to carry enough water to keep yourself hydrated for anywhere between 4-6 hours (estimated trek time) and possibly more depending on one's fitness. 

Take your pick and start right away....

On the trek trail...

ANYONE CAN DO THIS TREK...

There is no limitation on anyone doing this trek and our group had the best mix of people ranging from an 11 year old to an 82 year old who completed the trek as well and was a great inspiration to all of us in the group. As the saying goes "WHERE THERE IS A WILL, THERE IS A WAY".

And there you can see the 82 year old member from our group slowly
 making his way up...what an inspiration

Beginning at the base of the PARO valley, the trail winds its way through a forest of deciduous trees and one can see beautiful rhododendrons along the way especially during spring. The uphill climb is immediate with periodical jagged stone steps along the way and also inclined dirt slopes. You are enveloped by trees providing the needed shade. Somewhere halfway along the way, you get the first glimpse of the monastery and you can feel the excitement rising within. 

On the trek trail...with a lot of tree cover...

So SERENE...One can really feel the SERENITY
as you keep trekking...

Enjoy the trek trail as you see lovely Rhododendron trees
in bloom on the trek trail....

Halfway

At the halfway mark, we were told that a one minute walk down would take us to a tea stop if we needed a rest, but we decide to continue on and stop on the way back to beat the afternoon heat and also the unpredictable Himalayan weather as we were exposed to Thunderstorms and rain the previous days. 

And there is the Halfway mark..and you can see the Tiger's Nest temple
in the background..but still a long way to go...

One of the Nature Sign Posts along the way...
Keep climbing...

You keep continuing uphill, and you are periodically teased by glimpses of TATKSANG coming closer and looking more beautiful. 

Almost 3/4 th of way up done..but yes...
still some way to go...

Me and my 11 year old group mate who kept
me company for the entire trek...

Finally, just when you feel you have more or less reached the top be prepared for some REAL THRILL. You are greeted by the most STUNNING VIEW YET - a set of stairs heading down leading to a sacred waterfall, after which the stairs wind up again to the wooden gate of the Tiger's Nest (according to locals around 700 stairs or so). 

A glimpse of the sacred waterfall in between the up
and down stair climb...

Beautiful view of Paro Valley from the
View Point which is on the way

At the gate, one can see lot of prayer flags hung across and as they blow in the Himalayan Breeze, one can feel the timelessness and sanctity of this cliff-side temple. You have to remove your footwear before entering the temple. 

Prayer Flags along the way...

Inside the temple, we hired a guide to walk us through the various cave like shrines, including the cave where Padmasambhava is supposed to have meditated. We lighted yak butter candles and spent about 45 minutes to an hour before preparing ourselves for the climb back down.

The Return Journey

The return journey is much faster but equally dramatic what with the stair climbing sequence now REVERSED. You will find lot of local people and tourists on the way, who will keep cheering you and encouraging you to keep walking.

Another beautiful view of the Paro Valley
from the View Point

There is only one restaurant situated mid-way and the pricing of eatables available is on the expensive side. There is also a souvenir shop in this area in case one needs to purchase some souvenirs.

Prayer Wheels on the way....such an important part
of the Buddhist Tradition

In speaking with the local people/guides on the way, we were told that in all there are some 700/800 or more stairs leading up to the monastery gate. Side-railings have been put up on the entire stair-case route leading up to the monastery. Once you reach the gate, you have to hand over your wallets, cameras etc at the gate counter. Please note that in Bhutan there is a dress code to be followed especially while visiting religious places. Photography is prohibited inside the Temple. There is also a small area where you can refill your water bottles with some pure water. 

The monastery caught fire in 1998 possibly from butter lamps but was restored to its former glory.

About two hours uphill, an hour spent inside the monastery and about 2 hours downhill including a brief stop at the cafeteria, I along with some of my group managed to reach the base by 1-1:30 pm.

There is a small handicraft market area at the basement from where you can buy jewellery and other craft items. 

Trek done and pleased, I got into our bus which was waiting for us and waited for the other group members to finish and join us. Finally about an hour or so later the remaining group members arrived and as soon as they entered the bus, we were greeted by thunderstorms and rains. We were relieved to be back in the comfort of the bus and headed back to the place where we were put up, where a well deserved late lunch was awaiting us.

The Tiger's Nest Trek is normally scheduled somewhere mid-way or towards the end of any Bhutan tour to allow time for people to acclimatize to the altitude and weather in Bhutan.

Hanging suspended in the air as if they are reaching towards GOD, these monasteries serve to prove that a quest for silence, serenity and inner peace can be so great as to drive humans to build these amazing Castles in the Air.